RaceChip USA Kia Stinger Tuning

My suggestion is to make a new thread with that post, then make edits as requirements changes. This thread is way too active to weed through. Ideally if you had a section on the forum that retains all your knowledgebase it would be even better.

Agree.

And for the 93-98 Octane, please also clarify the English: "Re-gapping" is no must." If re-gapping is required then it is "a must." If re-gapping is not required, then it is "not required."

This x1000

Good idea, thank you. I will check whether this is possible.

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Cross posted with another Racechip post...hard to keep track.

So I just ordered the Racechip GTS Black and I'm wondering what the latest consensus is on plugs?

Here's my understanding of options (all assume 93+ octane fuel in the US):

1) No change. Low performance tune. Chance of plugs fouling is high.

2) Gap OEM to ~.026-.028" . No misfires for 1000+ miles? Can run more aggressive tune.

3) HKS plugs (HKS 50003-M40IL) swapped in. Can run aggressive tune. No data on longevity.

Cost aside, my understand suggests that running the HKS plugs would be prudent. Why go through all the work to adjust the gap only to have to go back later?

On another note, I emailed customer service and asked for the "aggressive" tune and mentioned that I would ensure to have properly gapped plugs. Has anyone had experience with this software change?

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I can confirm that you need either regapped plugs or the m45iL?s that have been recommended

I have been running the racechip black for approximately 2000 miles with no issues until a few days ago it started misfiring. I run only 94 octane here in Canada and I thought it was going to be fine but I guess I was wrong. I?ve ordered the m45iL?s so will post an update after a bit of driving

Thanks for the info.

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Sorry for delay in reporting but I am eating my words on my original post. I have tried to read and figure out what is going on with the plugs and coil packs. I have well over 1000 miles on my GT2 and as I have stated RC is awesome. I got back from vacation early April and watched an unboxing/install video and realized I was still only in the sport mode, I went out to my car that night switched into Race and fell in love again. I found I was doing less hard runs from a dead stop but more part throttle from speeds of 25 to 70 and from there the heads up display would be a blur with the numbers trying to keep up. I sometimes would switch to Sport or even off just trying to distinguish the differences. I will say that I think because of the increased power it feels like the car is either on or off, meaning full power or no more abrupt throttle. When RC switched off the power builds more constant and linear. Just my perception.
Anyway at 3500 miles took it in for a scheduled oil change and guess what no filter in stock. I drove 60 miles to the dealer because they gave me the best deal and included 2 free fully synthetic oil changes for free. Anyway they offered me a loaner and to come back tomorrow ( they also offered to bring me my car the day after but I said no one can drive it even if I drive the shit out of it everyday) but that didn't fit into my schedule so I asked them to drain the oil and at only 3500 miles fill it up with new oil and I will be back again around 3500 instead of about 5000 just because I didn't change the filter. I asked for a 3rd free oil change at no charge and they agreed. Win Win.
I put the RC right back on and was loving life and maybe another 500 miles until Friday May 11. Probably the hottest day of the year. I had put the same 93 octane top tier gas in my car the day before and was loving the acceleration in the cool morning air. Then on my way home from work I thought my transmission was slipping. Under part throttle the car was sputtering/jerking etcetera. I switched the RC off and no problems. I was so upset I too have the problem. No check engine lights and everything felt fine with it off. Well I didn't want to change my plugs yet mostly because of the work so I had just ordered Klotz octane booster based on its reviews. My logic being that 128 oz or 20oz a fill up I would get at least 95 octane according to their chart and buy some time and mileage on my plugs until this whole thing gets worked out and hot weather coming also. Hearing 91 octane was bad I wanted to be as high as possible. So Saturday my package comes I top off the tank in case maybe I got bad gas on that last fill up and add the booster. I run in Sport and its hot out 90 degrees. everything seems fine so I bump it up to Race and it sputters again. I go out for the evening and drive home with it off mostly because I had a couple drinks and of course its fine. I get home add 4 more OZ of octane boost and put it in Race and go for a run. With the booster and a couple drinks it feels like a rocket ship and then Bam its not only misfiring but the check engine light keeps coming on. I turn it off and its still misfiring. I am so disappointed. I wake up take off the RC start it up no lights no misfire. It seems to drive fine but now it does sputter once and a while on part throttle. I know some codes are stored and I will take it in on Monday morning to see what they will do. From what I feel and have read this is nothing against RC or a couple of the other Chips out there but I can only speak from my experience with RC. I think as strong as Kia made the motor and, transmission, driveline, the plugs and coil packs are the weak link for anything under 425 tq and 370hp about what it seems like people have gotten out of the Stinger. That as others have stated hopefully there will be permanent solution that we shouldn't and won't have to pay for. I will let you know what happens at the dealer and what I decide to do. I do not want to remove the intake manifold and install the HKS plugs before 25000 miles service but if that is what I have to do for addiction of acceleration than so be it.

It is important for us to understand this whole spark plug gap issue in the context of non-chip usage. If they are failing so quickly with a chip, doesn't it mean that they are also likely to fail prematurely without a chip? It's just that premature failure without a chip will be in a year or two instead of a week or two with a chip?

Mechanical experts please chine in here. I am perplexed at what supposed advantages the large gap is supposed to provide for "normal" owners.

For those of us that are not running a piggyback chip there is nothing to worry about as the current gap of the spark plugs is good for the factory boost setting. The spark plugs and coils will not fail prematurely, nor would using the time frame until failure of those running chips be a good indication of when and how will the factory plugs and coils fail for those that are running the factory boost settings.

The issue we are experiencing with ignition (spark plugs and coils) when using any piggyback chip is due to the increase in boost. The higher the pressure inside the combustion chamber the more difficult it will be for the spark to travel from the electrode to the ground strap, hence why the Stinger runs fine with the chip tune in the lowest setting and starts breaking up as the settings get more aggressive. Also the fact the ignition maps on the factory ECU have not been changed does not help either, as we do not know how much adjustment there is in the tuning tables from the factory to compensate for the increase in cylinder pressure, if any. Usually this type of problem is not present or minimized when you are running a standalone management unit or you are running a flashed ECU.

Spot on, [MENTION=321]robz32[/MENTION]

After I started having misfires with the stock plugs on race mode running 94 octane I decided to scale the chip back to economy mode but it is still misfiring/stuttering at higher rpm... I?m thinking that the plugs are failing now??

I?ve ordered the m45iL?s and will be installing them Wednesday

Stay tuned...

The more appropriate term is "spark blowout". Decrease the gap and/or boost the spark through the coils.

I took the car in first thing this morning. There was no check engine light but it would sputter under part throttle. The master tech immediately plugged it in and run I think more than 30 checks that are sent instantly to Kia. I couldn't wait and told them I would leave it until they order the plugs and coil packs and they looked at me like I was from outer space and even told me there were no misfire codes.

An hour later the service advisor called and said Kia said replace all 6 plugs and coil packs that shipments are Tuesdays and Thursdays and probably it would be Thursday. I will ask them to gap the plugs to the smaller recommendation because I feel I will want to run the chip but only in sport not race and only when it is not above 90 outside because I personally think the heat somehow acerbated the problem.
I don't know if they will do this. I thought about getting the HKS and having them put them in but if I keep having issues I want it ALL covered.
This is a smaller dealership than I usually go to and they have sold many Stingers but they still seemed to be in the dark about this. Until there is a published tsb I guess that is what we are looking at. It was funny because there were 2 master techs and neither wanted to deal with it because they probably know its warranty and a pain in the ass to do. He did say he was the first tech in the USA to replace a transmission on a GT2 I think he said rear wheel drive and it only had 300 miles! It was the owner of the dealerships demo. He was worried when I was telling him my symptoms but I knew it wasn't the transmission.

I?m hoping that replacing the plugs with the m45iL?s will fix the blowout issue

Fingers crossed

Here?s the stock plugs running 94 octane

M45iL?s are installed hoping for good results

Keep us posted.

Were the stock gap? Sorry is it's been answered.

it was stock gap because [MENTION=444]RaceChip[/MENTION] informed everyone it was safe with 93 or higher octane.

Correct